Kodaiji Temple (Kyoto)

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The Higashiyama ward is home to many temples and shrines. The Kodaiji Temple isn’t the most famous — that distinction goes to Kiyomizudera — but it’s also worth a visit if you are in the area. It was built in honor of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, a badass feudal lord in the late 1500’s whose list of accomplishments include (randomly): reunifying Japan, forbidding samurai from farming, forbidding farmers from owning swords, persecuting Christians, patronizing the arts, ordering his master of the tea ceremony (and one of his closest friends) to commit suicide, and attempting to conquer China by way of Korea (didn’t work). A complicated man, shall we say, but he was a peasant who worked his way to becoming Imperial Regent of Japan so…that’s something.

This is the main hall of the Kodaiji Temple.

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Beside the main hall is Kodaiji’s rock garden — the raked gravel is intended to represent the ocean.

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The seasons at Kiyomizudera Temple

There are iconic images of Kiyomizudera Temple — images of the World Heritage Site’s wooden platforms and graceful dark roofs wreathed in cherry blossoms or maple leaves — but you will not find them here. Other things caught my eye, other markers of the passage of time, and although they can’t quite be called iconic, these are some of my favorite images from my entire visit to Japan last November.

Past customs, honored.

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The delicate present, savored.

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And the future

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…savoring the present too. Because no one should have to pay bills before their time. And because a heart full of joy and laughter and love is the thing one will need most in the years to come.

Where to Stay in Kyoto

How to get to Kiyomizudera Temple

  • From Kyoto Station, take bus number 100 or 206 (15 minutes, 230 yen) to the Gojo-zaka or Kiyomizu-michi bus stop — 10-minute walk to the temple


The Seasons at Kiyomizudera Temple
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Old Japan in the Streets of Higashiyama

Narrow lanes, lovely temples, traditional Japanese architecture and…free food! Why you should stay in — or at least visit — Kyoto’s Higashiyama Ward.
(Plus: where to stay in Higashiyama)

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I didn’t know Higashiyama was one of Kyoto’s best preserved historic districts when I booked a 2-night stay at the Gion Ryokan Q-beh last November. All I knew was that a ryokan was a traditional Japanese inn and that Gion Ryokan Q-beh was both well-loved by previous guests and easy enough to access by bus from Kyoto Station. That Gion was the one place in Kyoto where one might reasonably expect to see a real-life geisha (or maiko) was a plus but not the main pull — I really just needed a good, cheap place to rest my head for two nights.

Gion Ryokan Q-beh turned out to be perfect. It was just a short walk from the Higashiyama Yasui Bus Stop but in an alley off a quiet road so it was peaceful. I stayed in the 8-bed female dorm room, which turned out to be spacious. There was a big common area in the middle of the room, and on each side were 4 compartments, two upper, two lower. Each compartment had a foam mattress, a small table, a bed light, a peg and hanger, an outlet, and a curtain — basically, it was like having your own little room within a room. Other room options include a mixed 10-bed dorm, twin/double rooms, and a family room. Bathrooms were shared, and the toilets were those Japanese toilets that spoil every other toilet in the world for you because of all its nifty tricks. Plus, the ryokan had this room with a big pottery bath that you can reserve a 30-minute timeslot for every night — it’s not quite an onsen, but still wonderfully hot and private, and perfect after a day of walking.

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